Interior & Exterior Work.
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Salt Damage.
Salts are naturally found in most building materials. They’re also common in the brickwork of older chimneys, where years of use can leave behind salt deposits from the fires once burned inside.
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Salts have a natural tendency to absorb moisture from the air or from damp walls. When this happens, the salts dissolve in the water. As the walls dry out, the moisture evaporates but the salts remain, forming tiny crystals inside the surface.
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Over time, these salt crystals can expand and put pressure on the surrounding material, causing it to crack, crumble, or flake away. This slow process is what we know as salt damage.
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How to Spot Salt Damage
Salt damage is usually easy to recognise. You’ll often see a white, powdery or crusty deposit on brick, plaster, or paint — this is called efflorescence.
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What Causes Salt Damage?
Salt damage happens when excess moisture is drawn into the walls and reacts with soluble salts already in the building materials. Common causes include:
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Leaks from roofs or chimneys
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Overflowing or blocked gutters
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Poor drainage around the property
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High external ground levels
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Leaks from internal pipes
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Rising damp
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Older homes are particularly at risk because they’re built with more porous materials and have had longer exposure to weather and moisture.
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Exterior Brickwork Re-pointing
Over time, the mortar between bricks deteriorates due to weathering, frost, and movement. When mortar cracks or crumbles:
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Rainwater seeps through the joints into the wall cavity.
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Moisture gets trapped, leading to damp patches inside.
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Frost damage can worsen cracks as water expands when frozen.
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Structural weakness may develop, especially around openings (windows, doors).​
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Repointing restores the protective seal and prevents further water penetration by allowing brickwork to breathe through moisture evaporation.
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The repointing process begins with a thorough inspection of the brickwork to identify any damaged, cracked, or hollow mortar joints. If more than 20% of the joints are deteriorated, it is generally advisable to repoint the entire wall to ensure consistency and durability. Once areas in need of repair are identified, the old mortar should be carefully removed to a depth of around 15–20 mm using hand tools or low-vibration grinders to avoid damaging the surrounding bricks. After raking out the joints, the surfaces are brushed and rinsed to remove all dust and debris, providing a clean base for the new mortar to adhere properly. Fresh mortar should then be applied, ensuring the color and texture closely match the existing mortar for both visual harmony and material compatibility.
Finally, the joints are tooled to the appropriate profile, whether flush, recessed, or weather-struck, and the wall is kept slightly damp for several days to allow for controlled curing, preventing premature drying and ensuring a strong, long-lasting bond.
Re-plastering
Damp-damaged plaster must be removed before any repairs can be made.
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We start by:
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Chipping away all loose, flaky, or discolored plaster — typically up to 1 meter above the visible damp line.
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Allowing the area to dry out thoroughly (may take a few days to weeks, depending on severity and weather conditions.
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Treating the exposed masonry with a mould and salt-neutralizing solution (such as a waterproof render or tanking slurry) to prevent further damage and line with a membrane if necessary.
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Once the treated area is completely dry we apply a base coat commonly using a sand and cement render mixed with a waterproof additive, or alternatively, a damp-resistant plaster.
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After the base coat has properly cured we apply a finishing coat of plaster to achieve a smooth surface. Ensure the plaster to dry thoroughly before decorating, ensuring that only breathable paints are used, as vinyl-based paints can trap moisture and potentially cause the damp problem to return.
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